-=SC Bumper extensions=-

fiberglass in epoxy matrix reproduction Shelby Charger bumper extensions!
improved direct replacements for the hard to find and easy to damage stock SC bumper extensions. Many thanks go out to Heath Farquhar for providing the original parts and the project idea. We're not making these to make money, we're making them to keep the SDs on the road looking good.

Well, not just direct replacements. Many improvements have been made, not the least of which is the smoothing of the lines. The stock parts aren't' really planar and a lot of the ones we've seen, and indeed even the best ones we had on hand, have a center-punched look where the light cutouts deform the planar nature of them. The next upgrade I did was bond in stainless studs where the stock push clips hurt your fingers and plastic studs used to break off. Their smaller diameter allows a greater range for adjustment as well as having the distinct advantage of not pulling the face through after repeated mountings. These studs hold nylon washers and nylon insert stainless locknuts so you can still take them off without wrecking them even after years of nasty salt roads. The studs are smaller in diameter and the greater range of available adjustment lets you line up your panels better if you care, or lets you put them on straight even with a mildly damaged lower fender. Being lighter and stiffer, they can be put on with less than the stock number of bolts, and still be solid*. They are also paint-ready, with no wax or mold release to remove*. Please read our recommendations below (the *s)

overview of improvements :
stainless steel studs bonded into part when molded
stainless steel and nylon locknuts and washers included
stock molding ripples and waves removed
lighter and stiffer

construction :

These are made with the same great epoxy and care we use on our high end carbon products. For the outer layers and handling convenience we've used two layers extremely lightweight 1.4oz fiberglass to keep the surface smooth with no print-through and significantly reduce the number of stray fibers on the surface. Next comes 1-3 layers of 4.7oz glass depending on location in the mold, and some 13oz CSM for rigidity and bulk in critical areas. The bonded in studs' heads are sandwiched in the middle of all this surrounded by mixed coloidial silica in epoxy. The same filler is used on all the tight corners to keep the edges as sharp as possible and the number of air bubbles down. you can see this as the white spots in the pictures. it doesn't show through the paint, and is the same epoxy throughout, just thickened with the colloidial silica.

pricing :

available from Heath Farquhar and carbotron.

from carbotron
40USD each.
shipping USPS priority from zip 15201 ~4lbs

 

pictures :

as pulled from the mold, no trimming etc.

semi-trimmed, backside view of studs

semi-trimmed part, very planar and torquable diagonally to fit.
smooth back, straight edges, bonded stud.

*recommendations prior to painting:

While we strive for the highest quality, and use only the highest quality materials, we're not perfect. Making these parts available at such a low cost, these are contact molded with no vacuum assistance, so there are bound to be a few surface bubbles. We inspect all parts and fill any large bubbles with the same epoxy used in their construction, and then wet sand. all small surface bubbles found <~0.5mm are left. Like all aftermarket parts, if going on a black car or a show car, or if you have a few minutes, we recommend a high-build primer, sanding and close inspection, and if necessary, followed with glazing putty and wet sanding to insure a perfect finish. We use a special mold release that leaves no residue and has zero transfer to the part. However handling it with your hands gets oil on the surface, and you should still use all the surface prep you would any normal part. That being said, a good application of regular spray paint can look great on the stock surface with just a wipe down with thinner or after a good wash with dish soap.

In the name of more cost and weight savings, We have also left the bolt attachment holes in the back and bottom un drilled. Being that these are significantly stiffer than stock, you can save a little weight and use less bolts to hold them on, or attach them like stock. Your choice, the holes are easy to drill and their locations are dimpled for the stock hole locations.

OK, I'm interested jason!